Practical Shotgun Basics

I wrote this as an introductory guide to shotgun shooting for a course I taught back in 2023 - since then, I've sent it to about a dozen people, figured it'd make sense to put it on the internet so it could be found more easily. Some of the information in here is not exactly how I do things now (OCT 2025) but the broad strokes are pretty much the same, and should serve you well if you want to up your shotgun game.

Introduction - “The Sport of Action Shotgun” 

Action Shotgun refers to a type of competition shooting involving the shotgun, and scored based on rapid engagement of multiple targets on unique stages. This training course will equip students with the fundamental skills required to succeed in IPSC Shotgun matches, as well as the shotgun portion of 3-Gun Competition. 

To succeed in Action Shotgun competition, one must have the following basic skills: 

• Understanding of equipment to ensure reliable function 

• Stance and Grip to manage shotgun recoil at high speed

• Understanding of Sight Alignment using common shotgun sights 

• Ability to rapidly and reliably reload the gun

• Movement Skills to cover distance rapidly while complying with range 180º rules

• Correlation of pattern size with target type and aiming requirement

Action Shooting is a speed-dominated sport; shot timers are used to determine a shooter’s time on a course of fire, with the lowest time winning that course. Failing to neutralize targets will add penalties that lower the competitor’s score, as will hitting designated “no-shoot” targets. The best way to win an Action Shotgun match is to hit all the targets, as fast as possible. 

Most targets in Action Shotgun will be engaged with birdshot; these will mostly be falling steel plates or static clay pigeons, with some flying clays and moving steel targets. A small number of slugs will be shot at either static steel beyond 40m, or paper targets within 40m. Buckshot is infrequently used, but occasionally required for some paper or steel targets. 

Reliable Equipment

It is difficult to win any speed-dominated competition when you spend most of your time clearing stoppages. It is also difficult to win when your ammunition will not knock over the targets you are attempting to hit. The first step to winning in Action Shotgun is having stuff that works. That means understanding how to maintain your equipment, and what ammo to put in the gun. 

Proper Ammunition Load: 

The primary ammunition type used will be birdshot. Match rules generally require birdshot to be no larger than #6 and unplated lead shot; normal target birdshot will suffice for this purpose. To ensure the ammunition will reliably knock over all steel, I recommend a minimum of 1oz of shot and a minimum velocity of 1180fps. Some shotguns require more energy to cycle the action of the gun: the minimum power levels for common semi-autos are listed below: 

• Benelli and Beretta Autoloaders 

  • 1oz shot, 1180fps

  • 1 ⅛ oz shot, 1145 fps

• Stoeger Autoloaders 

  • 1oz shot, 1300fps

  • 1 1/8oz shot, 1200 fps

• VEPR/Saiga-based Autoloaders

  • 1 ⅛oz shot, 1250fps

Information about shot size, weight and velocity is commonly found on the box

Quality Ammunition

In addition to using the proper load, it is important to choose well-made shells; many cheaper shells may have the proper combination of shot weight/velocity, but their poor manufacturing causes feeding or ejection issues. The following is a list of known reliable product lines that are commonly available: 

• Winchester AA

  •  (NOTE - the only Winchester shell reliable enough for match use is the AA. Winchester “Super Target”, “Universal”, “Win3Gun” etc have a poor hull design that causes stoppages)

• Remington STS, Gun Club, Game Load

• Federal Bulk Pack, Top Gun, Gold Medal Grand

• Estate Game and Target

Four product lines from three manufacturers, all known to reliably function

Shotgun Maintenance

It is a common myth that firearms need to be regularly cleaned in order to function reliably; even semi-auto shotguns will run just fine when they are dirty. They will NOT, however, function reliably when they are dirty and DRY. Lubrication is a must on all moving parts. Some semi-auto shotguns are particularly sensitive to the viscosity of the lubricant used, but I have found that 10W-30 motor oil or SLIP-2000 oil works on just about all of them. Ensure that the bolt raceways, cam pin/slot and the bottom of the bolt carrier are lubricated to minimize friction during cycling.

Lubrication points on a Benelli M2 BCG

In addition to proper lubrication, ensure that important springs are replaced at regular intervals, including; 

• Magazine Tube Spring (this is CRITICAL and will wear out faster than all others - always carry a spare) 

• Recoil Spring

• Extractor Spring

• Hammer Spring

• Carrier Dog Spring (Benelli/Stoeger) 

Building Stance and Grip: 

The shooting platform is important for controlling recoil and muzzle movement with all firearms, but it is absolutely crucial to success when using the shotgun. The stance is of particular importance as unlike light-recoiling competition rifles and pistols, the shotgun CAN dramatically alter one’s body position with a single shot fired with poor stance. 

Stance Checklist

• Forward Weight Transfer

  • Offset feet front/back for stability

  • Hip ahead of ankle, shoulder ahead of hip, ear ahead of shoulder

  • Forward pressure in the back leg “pushing forward” 

• Skeletal Alignment

  • Hips and shoulders at roughly 90º angle from shotgun

• Isolation of Tension

  • Shotgun held firmly against body

  • Pressure in lower leg from balance/bracing forward

  • Everything between shoulders and knees relaxed

In addition, we can minimize the amount of movement at the muzzle by building a strong connection to the shotgun with hand placement and cheekweld (this is referred to as the “Grip” on a shotgun): 

Grip Checklist

• Stock below top of shoulder

• Buttpad on collarbone, even with cheekbone (move gun to face, not face to gun) 

• Support hand at natural extension on the handguard, wrist parallel to bore

• Rearward pressure holding stock into shoulder from support and strong hand

The combination of stance and grip will minimize the amount of disturbance caused by recoil, meaning the gun recovers to the next target sooner, enabling faster shooting. 

Aiming the Shotgun

Aiming a shotgun using the conventional bead or rib-style sighting system can require some adjustment for shooters accustomed to precise rifle or pistol-style sights. The principles are the same, however. It is easy to understand if we imagine the bottom of the “rib” to act as our rear sight in order to provide alignment, and imagine a pistol-style rear sight notch protruding along the side of the rib. The graphic below will help illustrate this. 

It is also possible to mount aperture-style rifle sights or notch/post pistol sights onto a shotgun, but the vent rib with a fiber optic bead is considered to be the fastest for rapid birdshot shooting, and still works for precise slug/buckshot targets. Red dot sights are a good solution for shotgun aiming, however most competition rule sets prohibit RDS in the “Standard” or “Tactical” divisions. Additionally, good RDS mounting solutions are hard to find for common tube-fed competition shotguns. 

An IPSC “Modified” Division shotgun with Aimpoint Micro S1 sight

A 3-Gun “Open” Division VEPR 12 magazine fed shotgun with dual red dot sights. 

Gun Fit 

Unlike with a Rifle or Handgun, the shotgun can and should be adjusted to the individual shooter. Since the shooter’s eye essentially functions as the rear sight, properly fitting the stock will help the shooter rapidly acquire sight alignment without compromising their head position or grip on the gun. 

The three dimensions that can be easily adjusted on common shotguns are: 

• Length of Pull 

  • The distance between the rearmost end of the buttstock and the trigger

• Drop

  • The distance between the “comb” of the stock (topmost edge where it contacts the cheek) and the top of the rib

• Cast 

  • Angle of the buttstock vs. the shooter’s face

  • “Cast-on” means the stock is angled toward the shooters face

  • “Cast-off” means the stock is angled away from the shooters face

  • “Neutral” means the stock is completely inline with rib

.    

This shotgun is configured with a slight amount of cast-off for a right-handed shooter.

Reloading for Speed

In the competition shooting world, either “dual” or “quad” loading is the winning way to reload. For isolated shotgun-only competition, quad-loading is a must. In 3-Gun, it is possible to win a major match loading two shells at a time. Both methods require a properly setup loading port, as well as specialized shell caddies. Loading can be done with either hand, but we will focus on weak-hand loading here. 

Dual Loading

It is easiest to learn quad-loading by first learning to “dual” load. First, the gun is rolled upside-down and anchored against the shooter’s armpit, rib cage or hip. The shooter draws a “stack” of two shells from the caddy with the crimp of the top shell pressed against the base of the bottom shell. The shooter’s thumb is held on the outer half of the top shell’s base. The shell stack is pressed into the shotgun’s loading port with the palm of the hand. Hold pressure downward to keep the stack aligned with the magazine tube, and press forward with the thumb until both shells have passed the shell latch. Repeat as necessary until the gun has enough bullets to kill all the things. 

Quad Loading

In a “quad” load, a second stack of shells is drawn when the shooter grabs from the caddy, also held crimp-to-base. This stack is held to the side of the first stack when inserted, then the shooter brings their hand back, moves the second stack onto the loading port, and inserts into the gun as before. 

Patterning and Choke Selection

One advantage to using shotguns for speed shooting steel on the ground is that rather than engaging with a single projectile of a fixed size (as with a rifle or pistol), the shotgun throws a pattern of multiple projectiles that expands with distance and can be controlled using choke tubes. 

Using the proper choke for the targets presented will enable the shooter to trigger a shot when their sights are “close enough” to the target, rather than within the target itself. Patterns will vary depending on the ammunition and choke used, so the shooter must individually pattern their shotgun with their ammo and each choke they might use at the distances they will encounter. 

Alternatively, one can choose to “over-choke” by using a tight choke such as Modified, and aiming the shotgun like a rifle for each target. This method leaves some time on the table, but avoids the risk of missing a target by not putting enough pellets on it. The slowest thing you can do in Action Shotgun is miss, especially if missing means having to reload the gun. 

The typical chokes used for Action Shotgun are (tightest to loosest): 

• Modified

• Light Modified

• Improved Cylinder

• Skeet

• Cylinder

• “Spreader” or “Diffusion”

Patterning of chokes can be done either on a large steel plate (repainting at each distance), or on a cardboard target - USPSA targets work well for this. The procedure for patterning is: 

• Use one target for one distance - I work from 7m to 27m in 5m increments

• Mark the center of the target clearly (precise aiming points) 

• Start with tightest choke

• Fire perfectly centered shot

• Use permanent marker to circle pattern - measure and denote choke used

• Progress to next loosest choke

• Fire perfectly centered shot

• Use marker to circle pattern - measure and denote choke used

• Repeat until loosest choke has been measured, or pellet dispersion is too wide to neutralize common targets

• Repeat entire process at desired distances